This is a quick and dirty method for getting some textural/bump info from a series of photos by creating a rough representation of the normals. There is software out there ,such as crazybump, which do a fantastic job at creating normals from a photo. However, this method can give you a bit of a different feel, one that I found is a little more gritty and less game engine. Again, I usually just use the software, but sometimes feel the urge to make life a bit harder for myself by doing something like this.

The above picture is a representation of numeric 8 bit values in each channel of a normal map. You can see how the red channel represents the x direction, green y direction, and blue z. If you can create a lighting setup that would give you similar dynamic range on a grey matte sphere, then you could recreate these channels by shooting different plates, and then combining them as RGB channels for your normal image. NOTE: this only works with objects of uniform color and reflectance. You will see that the wood knots create a bit of a problem, but it works great with things like canvas cloth, clay of the same color, etc.
The above picture shows the plates used to compile my wood "photo normal". The beauty plate is shot with relatively flat lighting(Use a small aperture to keep a large depth of field).
Then shoot your top, side, and front lit plates. You may need to adjust your shutter speed to get a good range - you don't want too large an area dropping to black or blowing out. Then comes the photoshop trickery: desaturate each plate and adjust your levels so that your color picker reads the appropriate levels for surfaces facing camera or falling off to the x,y and z respectively. Copy and past your side plate into your red channel, top into green, and front into blue. There's your photo normal map - you can further adjust the channel levels in this file to tweak the map to your liking.
This is a simple and quick chrome ball setup that is very handy to bring on set for the usual "run in and shoot as fast as possible" HDR acquisition. The above picture is the assembled "wand". It is a around a foot and half in length. The chrome ball is secured to the end of a standard crutch tip using epoxy(I was pretty adament about it not coming unglued). You may need to shave down the inside of the crutch tip a little using an exacto knife or the like in order to properly seat the ball. The handle is a standard plunger handle sawed to about a foot long. This is very handy for clamping with a C-stand on set and mounting it so that we dont see the crutch tip and handle behind the ball; just a nice reflective sphere.
The actual sphere is a steel juggling ball from a company called dube. As usual with a sphere of this type, there will be some scratches and slight surface aberrations, but I found them to be tolerable for general HDR acquistion - FG relighting and non "hero" reflections. If you need cleaner reflection HDRs then you should probably shoot some standard wide angle/fisheye brackets.
The handle can be unscrewed from the back if you need to place the sphere in some more spatially challenging setups. Also a good idea if you need to break down the "wand" when traveling.